The newly introduced Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT nicknamed "Peacock".
The Hi-Beat 36000 (meaning that the movement beats at a rate of 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour) GMT is one of the more complicated offerings from Grand Seiko's pure mechanical lines (the company also offers quartz and the proprietary Spring Drive timepieces under the Grand Seiko brand name) which has proven to be a respectable commercial success since its introduction in 2004. In my opinion, this is one of the few watches in today's market I'd consider an excellent travel watch, specifically watches with a dual time function to display both local and home time for people who often find themselves on the road.
The latest addition to the GMT family is the SBGJ227, which comes with a visually enticing dark green dial laden with guilloche in a circular manner, radiating outwards from the dial's very center. What makes this watch even more charming is the second time zone hand. That pop of orange (which is also populated to the "GS" and "GMT" markings) contrasts beautifully against the calmness of the dial and that's how you create a looker, which the new GMT totally is.
Coming in a 40mm (kudos to GS for not making it any larger) stainless steel case and the exceptional cal. 9S86 automatic movement offering up to 55 hours of power reserve, this is a dependable, stylish beater of a watch which is more than enough to withstand the sometimes arduous nature of international travel. What's better? At USD6,500 you're really getting a whole lot of watch in this one.
Now, while the SBGJ227 clearly looks and feels like an outstanding travel watch, I couldn't stop wondering: why. Just exactly what makes a travel watch, awesome? Is there a concrete, logical framework under which we could credibly measure how good a travel watch is, or is it more of a "I know it when I see it" kind of matter?
After some serious pondering, my conclusion is that - as lame as it sounds - it's a bit of both. While there are certain guiding principles out there to adhere to when making purchase decisions, nothing matters if a travel watch doesn't feel special, or if it fails to ignite that wanderlust in you and makes you want to just pack it up and go somewhere new. Nonetheless, I'll proceed to share my thoughts on some fundamental criteria that makes a travel watch irresistible and discuss the one watch I genuinely feel is the very best travel watch out there. Sit tight, and read on.
The latest addition to the GMT family is the SBGJ227, which comes with a visually enticing dark green dial laden with guilloche in a circular manner, radiating outwards from the dial's very center. What makes this watch even more charming is the second time zone hand. That pop of orange (which is also populated to the "GS" and "GMT" markings) contrasts beautifully against the calmness of the dial and that's how you create a looker, which the new GMT totally is.
Coming in a 40mm (kudos to GS for not making it any larger) stainless steel case and the exceptional cal. 9S86 automatic movement offering up to 55 hours of power reserve, this is a dependable, stylish beater of a watch which is more than enough to withstand the sometimes arduous nature of international travel. What's better? At USD6,500 you're really getting a whole lot of watch in this one.
Now, while the SBGJ227 clearly looks and feels like an outstanding travel watch, I couldn't stop wondering: why. Just exactly what makes a travel watch, awesome? Is there a concrete, logical framework under which we could credibly measure how good a travel watch is, or is it more of a "I know it when I see it" kind of matter?
After some serious pondering, my conclusion is that - as lame as it sounds - it's a bit of both. While there are certain guiding principles out there to adhere to when making purchase decisions, nothing matters if a travel watch doesn't feel special, or if it fails to ignite that wanderlust in you and makes you want to just pack it up and go somewhere new. Nonetheless, I'll proceed to share my thoughts on some fundamental criteria that makes a travel watch irresistible and discuss the one watch I genuinely feel is the very best travel watch out there. Sit tight, and read on.
Functionality
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time (photo courtesy: Watches by SJX)
Few things call for a watch to be as functionally fitting as does the road. When you're 2,000 miles away from home (and the other 17 watches you decided to not bring with you), you need your timepiece to perform at the highest level and get things done. And the tasks you want to entrust your watch with have everything to do you with your purpose of travel. Heading to the Caribbean for a weekend getaway? You might want to grab that diver watch to hit the water with you. If you are a corporate executive with people reporting to you from Hong Kong, London and Tokyo, a world timer could be your best friend (if you are one of those bosses that actually care about your associates' local time before making that chaser call, that is). A slightly toned down version of the world timer would be a watch with dual time function (i.e. the SGJG227) which allows you to track both the local time and home time, which can come in super handy too. Understand why you travel and choose your timepiece accordingly. Some relevant functionalities include, but are not limited to:
1. Water resistance;
2. Dual time indication;
3. World time indication; and
4. Alarm.
1. Water resistance;
2. Dual time indication;
3. World time indication; and
4. Alarm.
Versatility
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape 38mm (photo courtesy: ablogtowatch)
One reason why the pondering of a great travel watch's criteria excites me is that it challenges me, as a writer and collector, to think hard and deep about how I could get the most out of a watch under one big constraint, which in this case refers to the fact that no matter what situation you find yourself in while on the road, you have exactly one watch to count on. It is your dress watch, sports watch, beater watch and "show off" watch all in one while you're on foreign soil. Now here is where things get really interesting. Sure, it'd be unrealistic to imagine that a perfect watch as such does exist, because it simply doesn't. Take the amazing Patek Nautilus Ref.5711 as an example. Sure, it is heck of a luxury sports watch that more than holds its own whether on the beach or in a boardroom, but it doesn't tell your home time. Its bigger, badder brother Ref.5990 does come with a dual time function, and is also a chronograph, but its thickness might render it tiresome to keep on the wrist for a prolonged period of time. Its strong presence could even invite unwanted attention, which might not be desired by every traveller. The key here is to be able to strike a balance and pick a watch that presents itself as a 80% appropriate choice in 100% of the settings, instead of a 100% suitable choice in 50% of the setting.
Aesthetics
The Panerai PAM335 with dual time indication and 10-day power reserve (Photo courtesy: TimeZone.com)
Functionality and versatility aside, it does pay off to pay a bit more attention as to what the aesthetics of your choice of travel watch speaks about you. Let's not forget that to many, travelling is a major experience in life capable of evoking a mix of emotions such as joy, excitement, or even a little bit of stress and anxiety. Travelling puts us in new environments and opens up opportunities for learning new cultures, making new friends and discoveries, and wouldn't it be nice to do all these while donning a timepiece that tells something about you just by the look of it? As famously summed up by Singer-Collector John Mayer in the first Hodinkee "Talking Watches" episode, sometimes it's really just coming down to you and your watch as you find yourself a "broken shell of a man" in a hotel room following some intense international travels. If you think there's a special bonding between you and your watch, trust me, that bonding gets 10 times more real when you're removed from home. So, be careful with what watch you bring with you and make sure it represents you, resonates with you and hopefully makes you a little less homesick.
So, What Do I Think is the Best Travel Watch?
The Patek Philippe Ref.5164a Aquanaut Travel Time (photo courtesy: Watch Collecting Lifestyle)
To me, one particular travel watch sits at the very top of the hill. It is elegant, super functional, crazy versatile and even comes with a movement that is exquisitely finished. It is the Patek Philippe Ref.5164a Aquanaut Travel Time. In steel, specifically.
To start things off, it combines two of the more practical travel functionalities: 120m water resistance and dual time capability. Moreover, it is fitted with the proprietary "tropical" rubber strap made of composite materials highly resistant to salt water, UV radiation and abrasion. From an industrial design point of view, this is a beast of a travel watch that's meant to be taken out in the wild. Its profile (essentially a derivative of the famous Nautilus design), while understated in a way unlikely to attract unnecessary attention, is not entirely unnoticeable. The black rubber strap surprisingly works really well in the more formal settings, as from a distance it can, and will, pass as a black leather strap, which means that the watch is as suitable for a business traveller as it is to beach-goers. And of course, it's a Patek.
Do you have a different favourite travel watch? Please leave a comment below.
Until next time.
To start things off, it combines two of the more practical travel functionalities: 120m water resistance and dual time capability. Moreover, it is fitted with the proprietary "tropical" rubber strap made of composite materials highly resistant to salt water, UV radiation and abrasion. From an industrial design point of view, this is a beast of a travel watch that's meant to be taken out in the wild. Its profile (essentially a derivative of the famous Nautilus design), while understated in a way unlikely to attract unnecessary attention, is not entirely unnoticeable. The black rubber strap surprisingly works really well in the more formal settings, as from a distance it can, and will, pass as a black leather strap, which means that the watch is as suitable for a business traveller as it is to beach-goers. And of course, it's a Patek.
Do you have a different favourite travel watch? Please leave a comment below.
Until next time.
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