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Weekend Brunch Report Vol.14: From a Caravelle Diver to a...

9/12/2016

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In this episode of Weekend Brunch Report we are back with a good variety of market finds, ranging from a bad ass diver to some dress watches in precious metal and of course, our seldom affordable, always jaw-droppingly beautiful Unicorn Find.

​Yes, you know what I'm gonna say next: let's check them out!  

<HKD20,000: A Super Sexy, Affordable Caravelle Diver from 1971

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When I first stumbled upon the above picture, for a second I thought I was looking at something much, much rarer. However, the subsequent realisation that it's not, did not give me any disappointment whatsoever. Because what we have here is a damn fine vintage diver that embodies multiple, desirable traits that could have been sold for a much higher price if not for the relatively lesser-known brand name.

A quick search on the internet will lead you to the history of Caravelle, which was actually a sub-brand of the more famous Bulova. And what you see here is a 36mm Caravelle diver that's waterproof to 666 ft (I'm pretty sure the exact numbering is purely out of marketing purpose), with your standard diver bezel with minute marks. What differentiates this particular watch from other run-of-the-mill divers, is the fact that it comes with a 3-6-9-12 dial, brilliantly patinaed as well as what we call a "lollipop" second hand that's rarely seen in modern wristwatches. The movement, Cal. 11DP, is not automatic, though. But that's quite okay. I couldn't imagine the future owner of this beautiful piece considering giving it a good winding every 2 days or so an annoyance. 

This very interesting diver could be had here for around HKD4,800.

HKD20,000 - 50,000: A Vacheron Constantin Calatrava

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By now you've probably realised that the Calatrava is not an exclusively Patek thing. Rather, the term was broadly used to describe luxury dress watches produced from the top manufacturers (e.g. Patek, VC, Longines etc) in the middle of the last centuries that shared somewhat similar aesthetics. To put it simply, Calatrava really is the name of a family of dress watches and today, we present you a more than worthy family member from VC.

This VC has a very likeable champagne dial  with two distinct types of hour markers: applied Roman numerals for hours in even number and "nipple" (yes, it's actually an appropriate and neutral word used by collectors to describe this type of hour markers) markers covering hours in odd number - a stand-out treatment to the otherwise staid, restrained approach generally seen on a Calatrava. The central sweeping second hand will certainly give the wearer a more entertaining visual experience than say a sub-second or even more so, a 2-hand Calatrava. The rest of the watches are through and through Calatrava affair with your 18k yellow gold case (showing some honest ageing here), modest case size (35mm) and completely rid of any extra function other than time itself. The Cal. 454 powering it is finished to the highest standard - how much I wish these vintage pieces have display casebacks!

The amazing VC Calatrava is being offered here for slightly south of HKD40,000.

HKD50,000 - 100,000: A Modern Minerva Dress Watch

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Yes, Weekend Brunch Report has been primarily about recommending high quality pieces from the past. Having said that, every now and then a relatively modern watch catches our eyes and we couldn't help but to spare a spot on our Report for such timepieces. And today, we have a superlative dress watch from Minerva from 2001 for you.   

Minerva, founded in late 19th-century, has been a storied manufacturer producing well regarded pocket watches and wristwatches, also widely recognised for its excellent chronographs. In 2000, Emilio Gnutti, financier from Brescia and collector of watches and vintage vehicles, bought the manufacture from the Frey family who owned Minerva at the time. Determined to propel Minerva to become a true Haute Horlogerie brand, Gnutti launched a series of the finest dress watches by all standards, looking to compete with the biggest names in the game. And today's subject of recommendation was exactly from the Gnutti-era.

A 40mm dress watch in white gold, this Minerva is as restrained as a modern classic watch could be. The watch face is clean and tasteful, adorned with subtle Roman numerals and classic-shaped hands. As with many other top of the line dress watches, things get very interesting very quickly once you turn the watch over.

Powering the watch is the in-house Caliber 48, a completely hand-finished manually wound movement resembling some of the best old Minerva movements with the easily recognisable bridge shape. I'll let the movement speak for itself:
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Minerva as a company, however, was bailed out by industry giant Richemont Group in 2006 due to financial difficulties and has since ceased to produce timepieces under its name. It has nonetheless survived as a high quality movement manufacturer supplying calibers to Richemont Group-owned brands, mostly notably Montblanc.

You can now own this fairly rare modern classic for a modest price of around HKD 51,000 here.

And......The Unicorn Find: A Certina Split Second Chronograph from 1940

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I'll begin with a really, really unsurprising announcement here: I love split second chronographs. If you don't know what it is, check out the relevant section in an earlier article explaining exactly that. In short, instead of being able to time a single event, like what a normal chronograph does, with a split second chronograph you could time two separate events simultaneously. Vintage split second chronographs are becoming harder and harder to come by due to its really low production volume, especially those using vintage Venus movements, which mostly older split second chronographs had their movements based on. And today we bring you a very fine, mid-century split second chronograph from Certina as our Unicorn Find.

Let's talk condition first, shall we. The Certina in question has a truly amazing, well preserved dial that shows signs of mild and graceful ageing despite being 70+ years old, underpinned by the even and beautiful patina-ing. Those who complain about the often small-ish case size of vintage watches (something I personally found captivating more than anything) would find relief knowing this Certina is actually 37mm wide, humongous by yesteryear's standard. The lug shape is decidedly Art-Deco, giving away the era this watch came from, adding to the watch's overall nostalgic flavour. All in all, this is an almost flawless specimen of the unique appeal of a vintage split second chronograph: double the timekeeping prowess, double the awesomeness. 

You could enquire about this rare beauty here.
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    Lengbeau cultivates appreciation for the eternal beauty of mechanical watches, for our everyday dudes and ladies.

    Lengbeau in Cantonese means "beautiful watches".

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