<HKD5,000: A Benrus Crosshair
Unlike its military counterparts that usually did away any brand markings, the Crosshair does feature clearly the Benrus brand on top of a cross that spans across the radiant dial. The positioning of the brand marking, along with that of the words "shock-absorber" have given the watch a contemporary, almost funky feeling, enhanced further by the sword-shaped hour and minute hands, a welcomed deviation from the often seen, rather staid line-shaped hands arrangement.
analog/shift is offering this very handsome 34mm Benrus here for around HKD4,500. Not a bad price at all for a piece of American watchmaking history.
HKD5,000 - 50,000: A 1970s Omega Seamaster PloProf
The PloProf (name derived from French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel - Professional Diver) was first developed in the 1970s in conjunction with Comex (the very same undersea engineering company that worked with Rolex on their Comex Submariner) to provide divers with reliable timepieces. Housed in a 45mm x 54mm steel case, the PloProf is not something that goes unnoticed and it can surely take a beating. The unorthodox layout is unmistakable, perhaps best highlighted by the orange button on the top right. It is in fact a safety button which has to be pushed, before the rotatable bezel could be engaged, in order to reduce likelihood of misplacement of the bezel (which leads to incorrect elapsed dive time being displayed). The crown, on the other side of the watch case, gets extra attention too, being completely surrounded which adds to its waterproofness.
The watch has shown signs of wear but retained its overall charm and we totally dig its deep blue dial (how fitting for a deep sea diver). Some of the parts have been replaced by OEM Omega parts, but originals are also sold along with the watch itself.
Lunar Oyster is selling this rugged, vintage Omega reference here for around HKD35,000.
HKD50,000 - 100,000: A Jaeger LeCoultre Triple Calendar
A triple calendar, as its name suggests, offers its wearer three pieces of calendar-related information: month, date, and day of the week. In the JLC shown here, the month and day of the week are shown on the two apertures near 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, while the date is indicated by the third hand with an arrow tip pointing towards the numbers lined up around the hour markers. This is not a unique treatment per se, for almost all triple calendar watches out there are sharing similar layout, but the combination of the 35.5 pink gold case, two tone dial and tear drop lugs simply exudes an irresistible aura of elegance that's definitive to watches from the early half of the 20th century. Powered by the JLC 494 hand-wound caliber, this is a watch you could enjoy winding away everyday and shows how much of a true connoisseur you are. And we can't really take our eyes off that moonphase(face) disc at 6 o'clock. A red sky? I mean, why not. Something to do with post-WWII optimism and creativity?
Going under the hammer in 2 days with an upper estimate of HKD60,000, you can learn more about this lovely JLC here.
HKD100,000 - 150,000: A Good-Looking Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1A
Featuring here is a mint Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref.3800 in steel, the immediate predecessor of the latest Nautilus Ref. 5711. The 3800 comes in a perfect 38mm case size that gives it a more reserved, sophisticated presence and is characterized by its square-ish profile that resembles the shape of a porthole. The integrate lugs are yet another signature touch from Gerald Genta that could also be seen on an RO, which elevates the overall structural integrity of the watch. The dial is of a nicely reflective navy hue which echoes nicely with the very name "Nautilus" and the oceanic theme associated with it.
The full set Nautilus can be had for around HKD136,000 on Govberg Jewelers.
HKD150,000 - 200,000: A Like-New A.Lange & Sohne Cabaret
Unfortunately discontinued already due to relatively low popularity, Cabaret is in essence a superbly finished dress watch of the highest quality. A 42mm x 25mm white gold case ensures people do not walk past it without noticing. The large, perfectly positioned big date with independent digits nicely balanced out the small second sub-dial at 6 o'clock, maintaining the overall sense of equilibrium of the watch face. What's even more impressive about the watch is the inside - a rectangular movement made specifically for the purpose of going into a Cabaret. This is rare considering many of the square/ rectangular watches are really just so on the outside, powered by a more common, round movement on the inside. That A.Lange has managed to inject the extra effort to introduce a dedicated movement (with the same high grade hand-finishing that defines A.Lange's since forever) is nothing short of impressive and as a watch fan, there simply isn't a time when we do not get excited over these special things watch companies do.
European Watch Company has this killer dress watch on offer for a little more than HKD150,000.