First off, happy new year to all Lengbeau readers! 2015 has been a monster year which saw the birth of Lengbeau and of course, a number of Weekend Brunch Reports which look to recommend some of the most interesting watches out there at different price points. We hope you've enjoyed them as much as we are writing them.
Comes the first weekend of 2016 and we're back with yet another instalment of the series to start the year on high note. Let's check it out!
Comes the first weekend of 2016 and we're back with yet another instalment of the series to start the year on high note. Let's check it out!
<HKD5,000: A Bulova Wrist Alarm
Featuring as the first watch in 2016's first Weekend Brunch Report is a watch that makes sure all your new year resolutions could be duly fulfilled by waking you up at the right time: a vintage Bulova Wrist Alarm. This particular reference, manufactured all the way back in 1957, features a second crown for adjusting the preferred time for the alarm to go off (it will literally make noise loud enough to bring you back from the sweetest dream you're having), something seldom seen in modern watches anymore. While LeCoultre (the predecessor to Jaeger LeCoultre) and Vulcain were the two most famous manufacturer of alarm wristwatches for the better part of 20th century, this 34mm Bulova is nothing to be frowned upon given how well the dial and the hands were preserved.
While a minute repeater can cost an arm and a leg, it doesn't mean we cannot afford a mechanical watch that makes sound. Perhaps add the purchase of this nice and loud Bulova into your new year bucket list?
The watch is being offered here for around HKD4,300.
While a minute repeater can cost an arm and a leg, it doesn't mean we cannot afford a mechanical watch that makes sound. Perhaps add the purchase of this nice and loud Bulova into your new year bucket list?
The watch is being offered here for around HKD4,300.
HKD5,000-50,000: A Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Ultra Slim
Out of the 5 watches we're recommending today, this is the one that got us the most excited. It's the very dressy, very slim, very reasonably priced Montblanc wristwatch. Let us explain.
Over the past decade or so, we've seen a number of multi-category luxury houses marching into/ re-entering the watchmaking space. Think Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Tiffany & Co., and of course Montblanc. However one common problem facing these luxury empires in their attempt to the world of watchmaking is the difficulty in establishing a distinct identity for their wristwatches from a design/ function perspective. The fact they have been so good at producing nice purses/ jewellery also leads to a situation whereby their watchmaking effort often get overshadowed by other premium product offerings.
Montblanc, mostly known for its beautiful pens and leatherware, has been a welcoming exception. Following its introduction of the Heritage Chronometrie collection in early 2015, Montblanc has delivered to the world an amazing line up of well thought-out, reasonably priced wristwatches with interesting complications while offering a respectable level of brand recognition. We strongly recommend you to take a good look at the extensive collection here.
Featuring in this week's Report is the simplest member of the collection, the Heritage Chronometrie Ultra Slim in 18k red gold. If there's ever such thing as an entry-level dress watch (aka. slim, sub-40mm in diameter watch with time-only function) made in precious metal, this is it. And Montblanc has done everything so damn right this time.
38mm large and only 5.8mm thick, this watch can disappear under the most well fitted French cuff. Featuring an ivory dial with applied baton and numerical hour indexes and hands (both in matching 18k red gold). Turning the watch around and you can get a great view of the robust, extensively finished ETA7001 hand-winding movement that gives you 42 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
Over the past decade or so, we've seen a number of multi-category luxury houses marching into/ re-entering the watchmaking space. Think Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Tiffany & Co., and of course Montblanc. However one common problem facing these luxury empires in their attempt to the world of watchmaking is the difficulty in establishing a distinct identity for their wristwatches from a design/ function perspective. The fact they have been so good at producing nice purses/ jewellery also leads to a situation whereby their watchmaking effort often get overshadowed by other premium product offerings.
Montblanc, mostly known for its beautiful pens and leatherware, has been a welcoming exception. Following its introduction of the Heritage Chronometrie collection in early 2015, Montblanc has delivered to the world an amazing line up of well thought-out, reasonably priced wristwatches with interesting complications while offering a respectable level of brand recognition. We strongly recommend you to take a good look at the extensive collection here.
Featuring in this week's Report is the simplest member of the collection, the Heritage Chronometrie Ultra Slim in 18k red gold. If there's ever such thing as an entry-level dress watch (aka. slim, sub-40mm in diameter watch with time-only function) made in precious metal, this is it. And Montblanc has done everything so damn right this time.
38mm large and only 5.8mm thick, this watch can disappear under the most well fitted French cuff. Featuring an ivory dial with applied baton and numerical hour indexes and hands (both in matching 18k red gold). Turning the watch around and you can get a great view of the robust, extensively finished ETA7001 hand-winding movement that gives you 42 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
The best part? All these can be had for around HKD35,000 here only.
The even-better-than-best part? The exact same model, housed in steel case and with sunburst dial finishing can be had for around HKD12,000 here. Same construction, same thickness, even better value.
Montblanc, please accept Lengbeau's most sincere love for you.
The even-better-than-best part? The exact same model, housed in steel case and with sunburst dial finishing can be had for around HKD12,000 here. Same construction, same thickness, even better value.
Montblanc, please accept Lengbeau's most sincere love for you.
HKD50,000-100,000: A Tropical Zenith El Primero A384
Zenith El Primero refers to both a specific in-house movement made by Zenith as well as a collection of watches powered by the same. The movement El Primero has been a cornerstone innovation in being the first integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement, designed and manufactured by Zenith from the year 1969. The movement was so good at what it does that Zenith is still putting it in many of its modern references. At one point, even Rolex came to Zenith to purchase the El Primero movements for its Daytonas. That's how good and reliable it is.
As such, vintage El Primeros could go like hot cakes on the secondary market thanks to its scarcity and tremendous collectibility. Today we are looking at a pristine example of an early El Primero, the A384.
The first big thing that made this A384 (manufactured between 1969 and 1970 only) special, are the gracefully aged sub-dials that have turned evenly "tropical" brown, while the applied markers and part of the hands have turned creamy. The features validate the originality of the watch. The hexagonal case shape is yet another big draw, a design so ever reminiscent of the boldness embodied by many wristwatches from the same period.
As such, vintage El Primeros could go like hot cakes on the secondary market thanks to its scarcity and tremendous collectibility. Today we are looking at a pristine example of an early El Primero, the A384.
The first big thing that made this A384 (manufactured between 1969 and 1970 only) special, are the gracefully aged sub-dials that have turned evenly "tropical" brown, while the applied markers and part of the hands have turned creamy. The features validate the originality of the watch. The hexagonal case shape is yet another big draw, a design so ever reminiscent of the boldness embodied by many wristwatches from the same period.
The "El Primero" Movement
Powering the A384 is of course, the unmistakable, original automatic El Primero. For the first time in history, you could enjoy your chronograph function without having to check if your watch is sufficiently wound. Own this means you own a piece of watchmaking history.
It is being offered here for around HKD68,000.
It is being offered here for around HKD68,000.
HKD100,000-150,000: A Jaquet Droz Decentree
There is always something for someone in the vast world of horology. There are manufacturers specializing in one aspect of watchmaking with others excelling in making progress in other areas. For people who are into gaudy timepieces with innovative use of materials, you have your Richard Mille. For people who are into classics with complications, look no further than Patek Philippe. So on so forth.
As mechanical watches become more of a luxury/ lifestyle choice, a distinct category of watches has increasingly left its marks on the market - the "Artistic" watches, those that are made valuable by artistic craftsmanship. Think jeweling and in our Jaquet Droz's case here, enameling.
Housed in a 43mm white gold case, the Jaquet Droz Decentree is a limited edition release with only 88 pieces ever made (this one is numbered 76). The dial is everything that makes both Jaquet Droz and the watch special. Boasting three centuries of ornamental skills in their pocket watches and wristwatches, Jaquet Droz is no stranger in making enamel dial of the highest order, which is evident in this Decentree's evenly black, reflective watch face. The complete lack of complication is the logical option here to allow the dial to do the talking. But to keep things from getting staid, both hour/minute dial and the second subdial are off-centered, with second subdial being exceptionally large to give you that bit of pleasant dynamic viewing experience as you go about appreciating the pureness brought by the black enamel dial. Oh, and don't forget that only about 1 in 100 enamel dials are satisfactory for use. Talk about the pursuit of excellent artisanship.
It's being offered here for around HKD110,000.
As mechanical watches become more of a luxury/ lifestyle choice, a distinct category of watches has increasingly left its marks on the market - the "Artistic" watches, those that are made valuable by artistic craftsmanship. Think jeweling and in our Jaquet Droz's case here, enameling.
Housed in a 43mm white gold case, the Jaquet Droz Decentree is a limited edition release with only 88 pieces ever made (this one is numbered 76). The dial is everything that makes both Jaquet Droz and the watch special. Boasting three centuries of ornamental skills in their pocket watches and wristwatches, Jaquet Droz is no stranger in making enamel dial of the highest order, which is evident in this Decentree's evenly black, reflective watch face. The complete lack of complication is the logical option here to allow the dial to do the talking. But to keep things from getting staid, both hour/minute dial and the second subdial are off-centered, with second subdial being exceptionally large to give you that bit of pleasant dynamic viewing experience as you go about appreciating the pureness brought by the black enamel dial. Oh, and don't forget that only about 1 in 100 enamel dials are satisfactory for use. Talk about the pursuit of excellent artisanship.
It's being offered here for around HKD110,000.
HKD150,000-200,000: An IWC Portofino Ref. 5251 (aka, the first Portofino)
IWC is known for its large, utilitarian watches such as its Big Pilot and Portugieser. On the other hand, its more accessible, dressy Portofino line has commanded its fair share of acclaim from its supporter for its cleanness and modern chic. Over the week we've discovered the first generation Portofino Ref. 5251 made between 1981 to 1999, a watch we couldn't take our eyes off from. It is a heck of a watch standing at 46mm large, yet with all the dressy details within.
Let's explain why it's such a humongous timepiece. The movement powering the Ref.5251 was actually an IWC pocketwatch movement which is already 38mm wide in itself. Good thing is, it's only 4.15mm thick so even after encasing it in a 46mm case, it could still sit flat on the wearer's wrist and hide under a cuff.
Much like the Jaquet Droz we've introduced just now, the dial of the 5251 is anything but busy, featuring slim Roman numerals and equally slim hour and minuet hands, tastefully topped with a moonphase indicator generously adorned with a "moon" and "stars" in gold. Putting aside the case size, the rest of the watch are of perfect proportion and very enjoyable to look at.
Let's explain why it's such a humongous timepiece. The movement powering the Ref.5251 was actually an IWC pocketwatch movement which is already 38mm wide in itself. Good thing is, it's only 4.15mm thick so even after encasing it in a 46mm case, it could still sit flat on the wearer's wrist and hide under a cuff.
Much like the Jaquet Droz we've introduced just now, the dial of the 5251 is anything but busy, featuring slim Roman numerals and equally slim hour and minuet hands, tastefully topped with a moonphase indicator generously adorned with a "moon" and "stars" in gold. Putting aside the case size, the rest of the watch are of perfect proportion and very enjoyable to look at.
This very special Portofino is strangely (I mean, come on, we're talking a case as large as a modern Panerai) classic (the rest of the watch) and is a design not likely to be replicated again any time soon. Thus we've decided to end the first episode of Weekend Brunch Report in 2016 with this quirky beauty worth every penny it's asking for.
You could purchase it here for around HKD175,000.
You could purchase it here for around HKD175,000.
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